Saddle stitching represents a fundamental skill in luxury leather goods, revered for its durability and traditional craftsmanship. This technique, particularly exemplified by brands like Hermès, is rooted deeply in the French leatherworking tradition. Let’s shed some light on the intricate world of saddle stitching, offering insights into its application and significance.
In the world of luxury craftsmanship, and saddle stitching, among other brands, Hermès stands out not only for its commitment to quality but also for the skilled artisans. They breathe life into each piece with this traditional and painstakingly precise technique.
No more than 10% of a Hermès bag is stitched using this method
It should be noted that this stitching technique is not applied to all leather bags from Hermès, as many people tend to think. Nowadays, usually no more than 10% of a bag is stitched using this method. It is used in parts that require more strength and as a visual design element in some bags, such as the Birkin bag.
The essence of saddle stitching
Saddle stitching involves using two needles and a single thread that passes back and forth through the leather, ensuring a strong, durable seam. This method is traditionally used for items that undergo significant wear and tear, such as horse saddles, hence the name. In the context of luxury leather goods, saddle stitching is favored not just for its strength but also for its aesthetic appeal, as it provides a clean, elegant finish that machine stitching cannot replicate.
Characteristics of saddle stitching cord
The thread used in saddle stitching is typically coated with wax. Hermès uses a beeswax-coated linen thread. Waxing the thread serves several purposes: it strengthens the thread, prevents it from fraying, and helps it glide through the leather more smoothly. The wax also helps the thread lock into place within the stitch, adding to the durability of the seam.
The thickness of the thread can vary depending on the specific requirements of the project. Thicker threads are used for heavy-duty applications, while finer threads are used for more delicate work. Common gauges for saddle stitching thread range from 0.6mm to 1.2mm.
Distinguishing between hand and machine stitching
There are notable differences between hand and machine stitching, particularly in their durability and visual appeal. Hand-stitched (saddle-stitched) items are characterized by their resilience; the leather will give out before the stitching does. This is because the saddle stitch locks at each stitch point, making the seam virtually indestructible.
Machine stitching, while more economical and faster to produce, does not offer the same level of durability. It involves two threads that lock in the middle of the material. If one thread breaks, the whole seam can unravel. Despite the precision that modern machines can achieve, the aesthetic and durability of machine stitches do not match those of the saddle stitch. Neither the aesthetics.
Learning the saddle stitch
The process of learning the saddle stitch is as rigorous as it is enlightening. Artisans, even those with prior qualifications in leatherworking, undergo extensive training to master this technique. The initial phase of training is usually dedicated entirely to understanding the tools and the fundamentals of saddle stitching.
The actual stitching process, as described by an artisan in training, involves using two needles to pass through the same hole, typically pre-pierced by an awl. This method ensures incredibly strong and durable seams that are characteristic of luxury leather items. However, mastering this technique is not as straightforward as it might seem. It requires immense concentration, precise hand coordination, and the ability to make subtle adjustments as the texture of the leather shifts under one's tools.
At Hermès, saddle stitching is more than just a technique; it's a cornerstone of their production process, especially for iconic bags like the Birkin and Kelly. Here, saddle stitching is not only about durability but also about creating a signature look that distinguishes these bags from those of other luxury brands. Despite the prevalence of machine stitching in the industry, Hermès maintains a significant portion of hand-stitching for its most exclusive models, reflecting a commitment to traditional craftsmanship. To attend L’école Hermès, proficiency in the French language is required.
An attempt at saddle stitching at Hermès
Experiencing the saddle stitch firsthand reveals just how challenging and meticulous this craft is. It's not merely about pushing a needle through leather; it involves a rhythm and a balance between pushing the needle and pulling the awl, a skill that is perfected over time and with much practice. The challenge lies not only in the technique but in maintaining posture and efficiency over hours of repetitive motion.
For novices, the task can be daunting, from aligning the awl and needle correctly to managing the physical strain of holding the leather firmly in place. Despite the challenges, each attempt brings artisans closer to the finesse required in Hermès workshops.
The journey of a Hermès artisan is one of relentless pursuit of perfection. It's a mix of technical skill and physical endurance, combined with an artistic touch that defines the luxury imbued in every Hermès product.
This detailed peek into the process not only enriches the understanding of Hermès' products but also increases appreciation for the artisans. Their skill, developed through rigorous training and highlighted by their persistence and precision, is what makes each Hermès item not just a bag but a masterpiece of craftsmanship.
The art of saddle stitching today
While most luxury bags today are machine-stitched due to the demands of mass production, the art of saddle stitching remains highly respected and sought after. For true connoisseurs of luxury goods, the type of stitching is not just a detail but a hallmark of quality and craftsmanship. At Ownever we know the importance of preserving this traditional skill to maintain the high standards expected in luxury leather goods.
It's important to understand and appreciate the traditional techniques that define high-quality artisanal products. In an era where speed and efficiency often overshadow traditional skills, saddle stitching remains a testament to the enduring appeal of handcrafted luxury. This technique not only ensures superior durability but also exemplifies the commitment of luxury brands like Hermès to uphold the highest standards of quality and elegance in their products.
